A History of the Vintage Cosmetic Vanity Case

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A beautiful vintage cosmetic vanity case by Van Cleef
A beautiful vintage cosmetic vanity case by Van Cleef

The vintage cosmetic vanity case became a fashionable accessory in the early 20th century, especially during the Art Deco period. For women, the 1920's brought a surge of modernity, independence and freedom not seen in decades prior. The rise of Hollywood and women's liberation movements contributed to the image of the "respectable woman."  Movie stars were seen as style icons, and their beauty routines influenced the masses. Cosmetics were no longer reserved for the theatre but now makeup items such as powder and lipstick were considered glamorous editions to a ladies toilette. Movies introduced visions of glamour and sophistication and the use of cosmetics had now become more socially acceptable. Not only were women using cosmetics more frequently, but they also were beginning to apply them in public, such as a lipstick touch up after dinner.  

An Evans vanity case circa 1920's

With the invention of the vanity case, women could carry their cigarettes, apply their lipstick, powder their nose AND pay for their taxi all in one place. Now that's true efficiency! 

It became more socially acceptable for women in the 1920's to wear makeup in public

Typical vanity cases of the period had built in refillable compartments; little wells that would house different combinations of cosmetic necessities such as powder, rouge, and lipstick. There was often a space to hold money and cigarettes. The vintage cosmetic vanity case however were more than just designed to hold the necessities; they were beautiful pieces of jewelry in their own right. Heavily influenced by the Art Deco movement, these works of art were characterized by bold geometric shapes, and vibrant colors. They were often made from metal, glass, or leather, featuring intricate engravings and enamel work. Many of them were encrusted with sparkling jewels. They soon became status symbols; meant to be admired and displayed. The grandest were made by the leading jewelry houses of the day, such as Cartier and Tiffany & Co. 

Beautiful examples of the ornate and elaborate vintage cosmetic vanity cases of the 1920's

The Creation of the Minaudiere Vanity Case

In the 1930's an upgraded version of the vintage cosmetic vanity case was created by Alfred Van Cleef. Van Cleef named this innovative piece "Minaudière" after the family estate located just outside Paris. It is said he was inspired by a socialite friend who he observed cramming all of her cosmetics and other accessories in a Lucky Strike Cigarette Tin! Other companies quickly followed with their own versions, and the origins of the modern clutch was born!

A beautiful example of the Minaudiere, by Van Cleef

The vintage cosmetic vanity case became even more elaborate as time went on. In a typical metal case you could find space for a comb, refillable lipstick, blush, powder, cake mascara, a lighter, a watch and some even played music! 

The vanity cosmetic vanity case has transformed over time, mirroring changes in societal norms, fashion, and personal grooming practices. By the 1940's to the 1960's a company called Evans popularized transitioning the vanity case from a metal box structure to a larger handbag.

Evens Handbag, courtesy of The Electric Peacock

The Fall of the Vintage Cosmetic Vanity Case

The 1950's into the 1960's represented an era where plastic was now being mass produced, and consumers were loving the convenience while manufacturers were enjoying the cost savings. Slowly this infiltrated into the cosmetic industry, where packaging was slowly transitioning away from metal and refillable containers to throwaway packaging. This unfortunately had a direct impact for the vanity case, which relied on refillable manufacturing.  People were now purchasing handbags without these built in cosmetics, and filling them with their own plastic compacts, lipstick tubes and mascara. Due to the increase in retail manufacturing and the lowered costs, people were also purchasing multiple handbags in the rise of fast fashion.

Sadly, the vintage cosmetic vanity case eventually faded from shelves and memories. Today, while luxury brands still produce modern interpretations, the traditional vintage cosmetic vanity case is less of a staple and more of a collectible. It appeals to vintage enthusiasts and those who desire to lessen their environmental footprint. A symbol of a bygone era of elegance, the vanity case was more than just an accessory. They encapsulated a fascinating intersection of beauty, status, and gender roles throughout history. The evolution of the vintage cosmetic vanity case mirrors the changing landscape of women's liberation, reflecting broader societal changes in how women view themselves and their identities.  

Would you like to read more about vintage cosmetics in history? Check out our blog The Glamour Gazette for more articles! <3

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